Great video that shows both
Pulka (below) and
Skijoring 
This page will give you some insight on the skill levels you will need, the endurance levels you and your canine will need for each sport, and equipment that may be necessary. I have also included some links and You Tube videos on the right column that I have found for more information.
Precautions:
If you are new to the sport, make sure you and your dog get approval by your individual medical professionals as needed.
Make sure you warm up and cool down as appropriate. A nice walk prior to starting will warm up the muscles.
If you are training a puppy, make sure they are 12-18 months old before doing any heavy work, depending on the breed.
Dogs should be at least 30 lbs (try dog scootering if you have a smaller dog)
If you and/or your canine companion are 'out of shape', please start slow.
Watch the 'gait pattern' of the dog before starting. He should have a smooth gait without limping. If you notice an discrepancies in gait before or after starting your sport, check with your vet to make sure there is no arthritis or hip dysplasia. Never have a dog pull if they have joint problems.
This website is not on skills training, so if you are going to try skijoring, make sure YOU can ski first.
Your dog should know basic commands before trying to teach sport specific commands, such as NO, SIT, STAY and COME.
Like any sport, on hot humid days, it is best to work in the evening and early morning to avoid overheating. Provide plenty of water for both you and your dog. Be aware that arctic and brachycephalic breeds need to be watched closely in the hot weather. Humans also need to be careful to watch for heat related symptoms as well.
Cold weather may be great for arctic type breeds, but humans should dress appropriately, preferably in layers. It is just as important to hydrate properly in winter months.
Depending on the type of terrain, dog booties may be needed. This will protect the canines feet in cold weather preventing ice from accumulating between the pads. It will also protect their feet on rough terrain.
Running on asphalt can be harsh on both you and your dog. The dog pulling can put extra stress on your ankles, hips and knees. (and possibly your back if you do not have the belt attached properly) This can also wear down the pads of the dog's feet.
For the following sports, start your training with ONE dog if you are new to the event.
For newbies, it is advisable to start with Canicross and then work up to the other sports on this page. People who have experience with mushing and skijoring may find it more difficult because THEY have to keep up with their dog, especially if you have a fast dog or are training with more than one.
For a list of canines and
the sports they may excel at, see Lost Temple Pets
Dog Guide:
Canicross
In canicross, you are not simply running with your dog, you are being pulled. Canicross has its benefits over running because you are attached to the dog by a tow line that is connected to a waist belt that you wear. This leaves your hands free and prevents disruption of your bodies natural rhythm with arm swing and trunk rotation. If you have a dog that likes to pull, this may also prevent sore shoulders, arms and back. Some people also use poles which are beneficial in increasing upper body strength, and keep the muscles toned for those who participate in skijoring in the winter. Most humans run at a speed for about 6-10 miles per hour, where an average speed of a dog is around 25 miles per hour. Jogging in humans is defined as running less than an 8 minute mile. "You are only as fast as your slowest dog", which in Cani-cross means you, unless your participating with a small dog.
TRAINING
HUMAN: YOU must be in shape before trying to run your dog. Like any sport, you may need to practice the skill by yourself before introducing your canine into the sport. If you already have experience with running, skip this section. If not, here are some tips.
Alternate walking and jogging in about 50 yard intervals. Try to start out on fairly flat ground at the beginning and gradually work up to inclines. Repeat these intervals 10-20 times.
You can gradually increase the intervals and distance. If your eventual goal is to race, find out the average racing distance needed.
When you feel YOU can comfortably run/jog at least a mile, you can introduce your canine companion to the sport (see CANINE below). Any shorter length on your part may confuse the dog with you having to stop and start again constantly. (See Canine training below)
Increase stride frequency and stride length to a comfortable running speed.
If you find the need to add weight, use a weighted vest. There is controversy as to whether holding weights in your hand can throw off your natural rhythm.
CANINE: As with you, if your dog has been a prior couch potato, don't try to run 2 miles on the first time out. Besides road work (walking and jogging), if your dog likes to retrieve, this is a good way to get in shape. When retrieving, it is better to make sure the object has stopped or throw for distance before the dog gets to it. This will prevent the dog from jumping up and twisting his back or landing on his hind legs. The next step is to find an incline, which is great for leg and core strengthening. As with any exercise, start with a low incline and gradually increase. The following instructions on training your dog have been for the most part from two websites I found: http://skijorbikejorcanicross.blogspot.com/2008/05/training-lead-dog-part-1.html and http://www.skijor.com/canicross.html . There are many different techniques out there, but here are a few to get you started.
"A dog out in front of you on a line needs to be a
sociable dog. Dogs that have a tendency for aggression do not make good
leaders or team dogs. You want a dog that will run by loose dogs and not
want to stop and pick a fight. Aggressive dogs tend to stay that way.
Some dogs can learn to be more disciplined but aggression is often an
incorrigible trait and difficult to vanquish. For dogs that can be
bullies, a muzzle designed to allow the dog to breath while it runs can
be used. To train a leader you must encourage your dog to get in front
of you and pull. If your dog is trained to heel then you may have to
overcome the inhibitions that you have trained into your dog. Most dogs
when dressed in a harness will differentiate the objective after a
while. When your dog gets out in front of you then praise her. Praise
her when she begins to pull. Reward good behavior with lots of praise. I
prefer the positive reinforcement method of training. Dogs respond well
to a happy driver. Don't mind when your dog does not pull very hard at
first. Pulling is work and a dog has to build up strength. If your dog
is already athletic then the extra work of pulling will still take time
because there are different muscle groups involved. Endurance does not
come with a breed. Endurance comes from miles on the trail. Start out
with low mileage and work slowly up from there. Be careful that you
don't run your dogs too far. You must know their limits and stay within
them. Your dogs must trust you to always take care. A group of humans
may be able to go much further on bikes on any day so you must always
remember to put the dog's welfare first. Always bring extra water for
your dogs or follow a trail along a creek or river that the dogs can use
to cool off".
http://skijorbikejorcanicross.blogspot.com/2008/05/training-lead-dog-part-1.html
"The first thing you have to teach, is for the dog to just get in front with the line out taut. A good way to start training the "line out" command is to take your dog to a new trail. The new scenery will set a joyful tone as your dog anticipates every turn. With your belt and line and the dog in harness, encourage the dog to get in front. Don't move down the trail unless the dog is in front. Praise the dog more when she is out front. Whenever the dog naturally lines out, then say the command "line out". A friend or family member up the trail for the dog to chase is a good incentive for most dogs. Try to always set the dog up to succeed. If the dog only pulls for a few hundred yards then stop the lesson there. Don't expect your dog to pull much at first for any duration. Pulling is hard work for the dog. A sustained effort of pulling requires endurance. Endurance comes from years of conditioning. If your leader prospect is already a good runner ,don't expect that dog to be a great puller right away. Pulling or working while running is something new, and the dog will need to develop certain muscle groups. Keep the beginning training sessions short. Be consistent and insist on tight lines at all times. " http://www.skijor.com/canicross.html Another command to get your dog started is 'hike'.
Commands "For training commands it is easy to enforce a gee (right) or a ha or haw (left). Corrections are easy because the dog is just a few steps away. Reel the line in, hand over hand and nudge or steer the dog in the right direction while saying the command. Learning to go on by everything is another lesson easily reinforced when on foot The "on by" command is used to insist that the dog ignore distractions like varmints or loose dogs when working." http://www.skijor.com/canicross.html
Commands "One of the hardest commands for a dog to get is
"Whoa" (stop).
I usually say "Easy"
(for slowing down, especially downhill) before I use Whoa and Whoa is
reinforced with a hard tug on your brakes or a stiff snowplow on skis.
Another handy command is "Come around" when you want to
make a U-turn. Use the command "Straight" when you come
to a fork in the trail and you want your dog to go straight. If you are
on a road and you want your dog to stay to the right or left then use "Gee
over" or "Haw over" Push the line in the
direction that you want the dog to go when you say the command. All
these commands are learned with repetitive use. It may take a while
before you can really rely on a dog to know what to do depending on how
often you work with your dog. Mix up the trails you use so the dog can
learn to listen to you when you come to a fork in the trail. When
approaching a fork in the trail, you may notice the lead dog's ears perk
as a signal for you to give a cue. I will often warn the leader before a
turn by saying something like, "We're gonna go gee, We're gonna go gee"
and then I say "gee" right before the turn."
http://skijorbikejorcanicross.blogspot.com/2008/05/training-lead-dog-part-2.html
Equipment (A great book I found on equipment and skijoring/canicross is Ski Spot Run by Haakenstad and Thompson)
Harness The X-back harness is preferred. It is extremely important that the harness be fitted properly and must conform to the dogs body type. No moving part on the dog should hit the harness. A misaligned harness can cause musculoskeletal problems, as well as chaffing in short haired dogs. You can also get padding on the neck and chest. If your not sure, find someone in your area that specializes in fitting dogs for harnesses, as this is the most important piece of equipment you will purchase.
Towline and Shock Cord The towline is the connection between you and your dog. The best type of towline is made from polyethylene. You may also want to invest in arctic-grade if you plan on using the line for skijoring in the winter months. The only difference between the line for skijoring and canicross is that the skijoring line is longer, usually about 9 1/2 feet for one dog, 11 for two dogs and 12 for 3, where the canicross is about 6-7 feet for one dog. You will also need a shock cord or bungee cord to protect from hard jolts that acts as a shock absorber between dog and human. If you run more than one dog get another line with a longer bungee section. A small brass swivel snap attaches the line to the dog's harness. Stronger materials are stainless steel or solid bronze. (If running more than one dog, see Neck Line in Skijoring section below)
Belt The waist belt is worn by the human. The most common belt is the 4". There are different opinions on where the belt should be in terms of center of gravity. Some say wear it at the center of gravity. Some say above that offers more "adjustment options for countering pulling forces" (Ski Spot Run, Thompson and Haakenstad, p 101) While some others say that ones that wrap your butt and pulls you at a lower center of gravity is better. http://skijorbikejorcanicross.blogspot.com/2008/05/equipment-needed-for-skijoring.html . Of course, most of these books and sites are concentrating on skijoring and not canicross. If you don't have a professional shop to fit you in your area, just experiment to find which is the better fit for you. A quick release or panic snap will be needed in case you need to disengage from the dog immediately. Make sure the snap remains with the belt when it is released so it stays with you instead of dragging behind the dog. You can also get removable leg straps that can be used if you choose to also do skijoring in the winter.
Make sure you and your dog are proficient in canicross before adding skates. This sport does require that you have training in inline skating or rollerskis, and that your dog knows his commands. This sport is more dangerous because you have to have control at a higher speed. You need to be able to stop as needed.
Precautions:
See Precautions as above, in addition to following:
Stay out of high traffic areas. Try to stay on trails that have little pedestrian traffic as well.
Use a helmet and protective gear.
At the beginning, do not attach your dog to your canicross/skijoring belt. This way you can let go of the lead until you are completely comfortable with you and your dog's performance.
This website is not on skills training, so if you are going to try rollerblading or rollersking make sure YOU can skate before introducing your dog into the mix.
Do not use more than one dog for this sport.
Practice stopping, as well as practice an emergency stop in case the situation calls for it. Aim for a soft place to land if you must go to the ground quickly to stop. Because of the speed, keep in mind there is less time to react if the situation calls for it compared to canicross.
In rollerskiing you will need to use your belt to keep your hands free to use the ski poles, so make sure you are proficient in rollerblading with your dog first.
TRAINING
HUMAN
This is not a lesson in rollerblading, so make sure before you start, you are proficient without your dog and can stop, turn and have control over your speed.
Use a regular leash or hold the bungi lead before trying to attach it to the skijoring belt. Once you and your companion are comfortable, you can progress to attaching the lead to the belt.
You may want to practice with another human taking the dogs place at the beginning. Although your friend may not run as fast, it will give you a feel for sudden turns, braking and slowing down before attaching the dog.
Try practicing over several different terrains and areas without the dog first. Become familiar with the paths you are going to take.
CANINE
Practice the commands that you learned in canicross above. A command that you may want to go over again is the "easy" command for slowing down. This will be necessary on declines. Say Easy while applying the brakes at the same time to give him the single to slow down. Practice this on a level area before you get to the point of going downhill.
Make sure your dog understands the stay command before you hook yourself up. You do not want to start when the dog is excited and unable to control himself, as he will start before you are ready. You may also want to have someone else hold the dog until you say 'hike'.
Keep your eye on the towline. Brake when the dog slows to prevent slacking in the towline, which can tangle in the dogs legs or get under the wheels and cause you to fall.
EQUIPMENT
Harness, Towline and Belt as above in Canicross.
Protective gear: This is a must!!! A helmet, wrist guards, knee guards, elbow guards and even tailbone guards are available.
Towline: As compared to canicross, the line for skijoring is about 9 1/2 feet.
Tow rope handle: If you do not feel comfortable attaching your dog to your belt, try getting a tow rope handle that can be dropped in case of emergency. This is advisable for the beginner or people who have unpredictable dogs. The downside of this is that it does not provide proper form on your part with decreased trunk rotation and arm swing.
Skates: Unless you know you will only be skating on pavement, get off-road rollerblades or rollerskis that you can use on paths that may have dirt or gravel.
Poles: If you are planning on skijoring during the winter months, you can use ski poles. Of course, this will require that you do not have to use the tow rope handle.
Now that you have canicross down, let's add skis to the mix. As mentioned before, know how to cross country ski by yourself before adding your dog to the line.
Precautions:
See Precautions as above, especially in canicross, in addition to following:
If you do not have an arctic type breed, or do have a short haired breed, you may need to add a 'coat'. See Equipment below.
As with rollerjoring, at the beginning, you may want to use a tow rope handle until you get used to skiing with your pet.
This website is not on skills training, so if you are going to try skijoring make sure YOU can skate before introducing your dog into the mix.
Start with one dog before adding more - no more than 3.
Be very careful not to run into your dog.
In rollerskiing you will need to use your belt to keep your hands free to use the ski poles, so make sure you are proficient in rollerblading with your dog first.
Pay attention to the surface you are skiing on and look ahead at the area:
Shallow snow: It may be hard to stop or slow down.
Areas or patches with no snow: You may stop abruptly.
Ice: A hazard in itself. If it has thawed and frozen over repeatedly, make sure your dog is wearing booties to prevent cuts on the pads of his feet.
TRAINING
HUMAN
This is not a lesson in skijoring so make sure before you start, you are proficient without your dog . Practice your turns and stops ahead of time.
Balance: Make sure you have good balance. Practice going around sharp corners. Make yourself an obstacle course in all types of terrain. A dog can run faster than you can ski uphill, so practice inclines and declines as well. (Do all this without the dog first).
If the dog lunges forward, assume the ski tuck position. This will stabilize your back/hips to help prevent back injuries.
CANINE
Practice the commands and training that you learned in canicross above. A command that you may want to go over again is the "easy" command for slowing down. This will be necessary on inclines where your dog can run faster than you.
Make sure your dog understands the 'line out' command before starting. This is important to keep the line taught before starting.
Keep the beginning sessions short. Vary the run distance each day.
If your dog is not as enthusiastic, take several days off and do something else for fun.
Assumptions: Winter XC ski trail, one inexperienced dog, and three humans - a skier to chase, a dog holder, and a skijorer (you).
Try the harness on your dog a time or two at home. Give your dog abundant praise, and let her know this activity will be fun. Never leave your dog unattended while wearing the harness.
Practice using the rest of your skijoring equipment. You might try having a friend pull you on skis to become familiar with the feel, especially the start (lean forward).
Choose a trail that is safe, relatively flat and free of sharp turns. Make sure the trail is well defined, and avoid trails with motor vehicle traffic whenever possible.
Take water and a snack for your dog, as well as a plastic bag for pet waste disposal.
When you arrive at the trailhead, place your skis where you plan to start, then put your skijor belt on and connect your towline. (We recommend not using ski poles on your first outing.)
Harness your dog and attach the towline to your dog's harness. Choke up on the line so you are closer to your dog for control purposes. DO NOT loop the towline around your hands, fingers, etc.
Have your helper lead your dog to the trail so you can put your skis on. The helper should then hold your dog forward, keeping the towline taut. Give your dog some comforting words of encouragement.
At this point, your "chasee" skier should be ready to go. Have him or her head up the trail while calling your dog by name. Your dog should become agitated.
When the skier is about 40 yards up the trail, say "Let's Go!" and begin moving forward with your dog. If she responds by pulling forward, immediately say "Good Dog!" and then help her attain some speed by skiing smoothly behind her. Keep the towline taut at all times so she can feel the pressure against the harness.
If she doesn't start pulling, have your helper coax her forward with a gentle tug on the collar. Once she does lean into the harness, say "Good Dog!" If she still is hesitant, have the skier up the trail call her name again with enthusiasm and then continue skiing away. Again give her a "Good Dog!" when she starts moving forward.
Keep the first few sessions short so your dog is still pulling hard at the end of the run, and give her positive reinforcement and a treat when you finish. Remember that the whole experience should be very positive for your dog. Once she associates the harness with skijoring, you'll be amazed at her reaction when you pull the harness out!
EQUIPMENT
Harness, Towline and Belt as above in Canicross.
Towline: The towline is skijoring is about 9 1/2 feet for one dog, 11 feet for two dogs and 12 feet for 3.
Tow rope handle: If you do not feel comfortable attaching your dog to your belt at the beginning, try getting a tow rope handle that can be dropped in case of emergency.
Helmet: Use a helmet if you are going on rough terrain that has a lot of turns and trees.
Eyewear: Protective eyewear is necessary to guard the eyes from debris kicked up from the running dogs, as well as shield them from glare off the snow. Make sure they provide access to peripheral vision, as well as are shatter proof . If you are skiing at night, you may need a second pair that is not tinted.
Skies and poles: Cross country skis are preferably without metal edges that can cause injury to the dog.
Neckline: Only needed when working two dogs side by side. Connects two dogs together. The collars it attaches to should be the same size as the harness you are using. Make sure the collars are snug (about two finger widths) so it doesn't pull off. You can also run the dogs one in back of the other without the neckline.
Jacket: Dress accordingly depending on the weather. This also goes for your dog. If you have a short haired dog, make sure the jacket you get is waterproof/resistent and provides free movement of all joints.
Bikejoring
Precautions:
See Precautions as above, especially in canicross, in addition to following:
You may want to start by not attaching the line to the bike at the beginning. Hold the line - do not wrap it around your hand.
This website is not on skills training, so if you are going to try bikejoring make sure YOU know how to ride a bike before introducing your dog into the mix.
Start with one dog before adding more - no more than 3.
Be very careful not to run into your dog.
If you choose to do a lot of biking on asphalt, invest in some dog booties for protection.
Decide if your dog is a front runner and can pull. If not, you may need a side mount attachment (SMA). See equipment below.
TRAINING
HUMAN
This is not a lesson in biking so make sure before you start, you are proficient without your dog . Practice your turns and stops ahead of time.
Practice 'feathering' your brakes. If you are biking on asphalt (not recommended for canines pads), you may need to keep a constant
In this sport YOU have to be in complete control, especially of your speed. Practice this not only on straight runs, but also on downhill sharp turns. Know what speed limit works for you before hooking up your dog.
CANINE
Practice the commands and training that you learned in canicross above. A command that you may want to go over again is the "easy" command for slowing down. This will be necessary on declines and sharp turns.
Keep the beginning sessions short. Vary the run distance each day.
If your dog is not as enthusiastic, take several days off and do something else for fun.
Getting started
As mentioned during the introduction to the
bikejoring section, beginners are encouraged to have some experience running
dogs before giving bikejoring a try.
It's also beneficial for the bikejoring dog to have experience
pulling in the harness, whether in front of a runner, skijorer or dog sled.
An inexperienced dog will often attempt to stay close to the owner
and bike, making starting difficult.
If you're new to dog pulling sports, we suggest reviewing our section
on "Teaching Your Dog To Pull" before reading further.
The "Commands" section is also recommended.
A successful bikejoring outing requires some
planning if you're a first timer.
Practice putting the harness on your dog a time or two at home, and
connect the towline to your bike before your maiden voyage.
The object here is to confirm that the line doesn't interfere with
the safe operation of your front brake.
Connecting the towline to
your bike
As mentioned previously, you should leave your
skijoring belt at home when bikejoring.
Wearing the belt while riding creates a myriad of problems, for
example, the attached towline can tangle with the handlebars, brake levers,
shifters, etc. Additionally, if
your dog bolts off trail the towline can travel across your handlebars and
pull against your arm, compromising your balance and ability to steer.
Being personally tethered to your dog near traffic is also a concern.
Instead, connect the towline to the head tube of your bike or base of
the handlebar stem as described below.
The head tube is the forward most frame member
located between the fork and handlebar stem.
It is an excellent connecting point for the towline, given the fact
it is stationary and independent from the bicycle's steering mechanism.
Furthermore, the head tube offers a relatively low fulcrum point
versus other options, which reduces the amount of leverage your dog can
exert from the side. This is a
subtle, but important advantage when your dog sojourns off trail....a lower
connecting point can make a significant difference in stability, even if
only a few inches.
Most bike manufacturers route the front brake cable
to the side of the head tube.
This makes it possible to wrap the towline around the head tube without
affecting the cable or operation of the front brake.
With some bikes, however, this is not possible.
For example, older model bikes with "M style" center pull brakes have
front brake cables that attach directly in front of the head tube.
Bikejorers with this arrangement must wrap the towline around the
handlebar stem instead.
If your front brake cable set up allows you to
connect directly to the head tube, wrap the towline around the head tube and
thread the snap through the loop to create a slip knot.
Make sure the knot can rotate freely from side to side to compensate
for your dog's turning radius, and test your front brake to confirm that the
towline doesn't restrict its operation - very important!
At this time you should also verify that the towline doesn't
interfere with the other cables at the front of the bike when rotated from
side to side. Simply stated,
the towline should be routed through the cables so that it doesn't interfere
with steering.
Bikejorers with large sized bikes will find it
advantageous to slide the towline to the top of the head tube and secure
with a small guage rope (14" long works well).
This technique prevents the towline from sliding downward towards the
front brake and wheel. Before
hooking up your dog, be sure the small rope allows the towline slip knot to
rotate from side to side without binding.
Many new mountain bikes are manufactured with large
diameter aluminum tubes. On
smaller frame sizes there can be a limited amount of space behind the head
tube for the towline to fit and rotate.
If the juncture behind your bike head tube offers limited space, or
forms a shape which is not conducive to free towline rotation, consider
looping the towline around the base of your handlebar stem instead.
For bikes with new style stems this means looping around the spacers
situated below the stem; for older style bikes this involves wrapping around
the base of the stem itself.
Secure the towline in place if necessary with the small guage rope
previously described, and confirm that your bike's spacers, headset cups,
stem base, etc., will not cut into the towline (these parts can have sharp
edges).
Some bikejorers will find it's not possible to
connect the towline to the head tube or base of the stem due to front brake,
stem or frame design. In these
cases the towline must be connected to the end of the stem where the stem
attaches to the handlebars.
This connection point is least desirable because it affords your dog
significant control over your steering.
For example, if your dog bolts off trail the stem and wheel will
immediately turn in the same direction while your center of gravity will
move the opposite way. This is
unnerving at first, but can be controlled by quickly turning and leaning
towards the direction your dog is pulling.
We highly recommend experiencing this getting a feel for this before
hooking up your dog.
Besides becoming
familiar with your bikejoring equipment, in particular connecting the
towline, it's also a good idea to have a friend or family member pull you
around the yard so you can first practice bikejoring without the dog.
Your "substitute canine" can wear a skijor belt backwards so it's
comfortable for him or her to pull.
Remember that the towline is like a big rubber band, so if the snap
is released under tension it will fling towards you at a high rate of speed.
Following are some exercises you can try with your helper, and yes
your neighbors will think you're odd.
Bikejoring primer
Find a small hill,
preferably one with a paved surface.
Have your helper pull you up the hill and down the other side.
Avoid using your brakes in this exercise until the last moment.
Note how the towline elongates up the hill and recoils on the
descent to a certain point, then falls slack.
The slack part is what you want to avoid in bikejoring!
Try the exercise again, but this time feather the brakes on the
downhill to keep the towline taut and away from the front wheel.
Now that your surrogate sled dog is warmed up,
have him or her pull you straight down a sidewalk or bike path, then
abrubtly off to one side or the other (obviously ease into this).
The idea is to simulate what happens when your dog bolts off
trail. Practice leaning
against the lateral force on the line and steer as straight as possible
without over-leaning (on a loose trail your front wheel can slip out if
you lean too much). If you
have a big dog or plan to run two or three at once, you'll find it's
necessary to steer and lean towards the dog(s) to stay upright.
This is also critical if you connect the towline to the end of
your stem, rather than the head tube or base of the stem.
Feel free to shout "On By" to your helper, and have him or her
continue pulling forward to repeat the exercise on the other side.
Try the same exercise again, but this time come
to a complete stop as quickly as possible when your helper pulls to the
side. You'll find it's
necessary to simultaneously regulate braking pressure, lean angle and
steer angle to stop quickly.
Occasionally during bikejoring a dog will bolt off the trail and
around an obstacle, for example a tree or sign.
To avoid wrapping your team around the obstacle, you'll need to
begin braking before your bike is lined up directly behind your dog.
Off balance braking like this is tricky, but saves precious
stopping distance as you align your bike and correct your balance for
hard braking. Be sure to
shout "Whoa" to your helper.
Have your helper pull you around a 90 degree
turn. Note how the towline angle
falls inside the turning radius of your bike.
Imagine what happens if a tree is positioned there!
Steer wide like a semi driver to avoid hitting obstacles on the
inside of turns, or minimally, rubbing the towline against the obstacle.
This is very challenging for those who must attach the towline to
the end of the stem. With
some bikes it's possible for the towline to catch on the handlebars or
brake levers during a sharp turn.
If this happens to your bike, practice undoing the tangle quickly
or braking to a complete stop.
It's nearly impossible to continue bikejoring when the line is
caught on the handlebar.
The bike will veer one direction and your center of balance will shift
to the other.
By now your helper is probably exhausted and
deserves a beverage. If he
or she is good for another pull, well two, have him or her head down the
trail at a fast clip and then stop abrubtly without warning. Stop
directly behind, and take note of how little reaction time you have,
even when you're anticipating the stop.
This situation can occur when a dog catches a hot scent in the
middle of the trail or feels an overwhelming need for a nature break.
Both of these challenges can be remedied with training, but the
latter usually requires a team size of three or more.
(In larger teams dogs poop on the run.)
Now repeat the
exercise, but this time practice steering around your helper as you
brake to a stop. Normally
it's possible to stop directly behind your dog in bikejoring if you have
good traction, but we recommended making a habit of braking to either
side for maximum safety.
Besides the obvious risk of injury, a dog hit from behind will
lose confidence running in front, sometimes permanently.
EQUIPMENT Except from http://www.skijornow.com/bikejor.html
Mountain Bike
Stick with a good quality mountain bike over a road bike. This will work better in most conditions you may be working in.
Aggressive knobby tires
Good traction is essential in bikejoring,
especially on hilly trails with loose or wet surfaces.
Choose good quality tires that have protruding knobs, and match the
tread type with the type of trails you'll encounter most frequently (your
local bike shop can help you with this).
For example, there are tires manufactured specifically for loose
gravel, mud, hard packed dirt, sand, etc.
Avoid "semi-slick" tires which are designed for low
rolling resistance rather than maximum traction, and consider mounting your
tires backwards (opposite the directional arrow) to increase tread bite
while braking. Finally, inflate
your tires to the lower end of the suggested range to expand the amount of
tire contacting the trail for improved grip.
The lower inflation will also provide a smoother ride and greater
control in challenging conditions.
Stop-on-a-dime brakes
A good set of tires are ineffectual if paired with
mediocre quality brakes. As
mentioned earlier in the scooter section, the mountain bike industry has
developed a braking system which generates impressive stopping force with
only light hand pressure.
Coined "V-brakes," the design allows a bikejorer to
control a fresh team of dogs on a challenging trail without concern for hand
cramps. Of course "caveat
emptor" applies to brakes like any other piece of equipment, so be sure to
test ride before buying if possible.
And if you bikejor often in wet conditions, i.e., morning runs with
dew or melting frost on the trail, exchange the standard issue brake pads
for red, wet weather versions (Ritchey brand works well).
As a side benefit, the red pads often eliminate brake pad chatter and
screeching.
One cautionary note for hard-core bikejorers
running two or three powerful dogs on a frequent basis - inspect your rims
occasionally for excess wear which can manifest as hairline cracks in the
rim sidewall. If you bikejor a
lot in wet, sandy conditions, a set of rims will last approximately two
seasons before needing replacement.
The brake friction and grit simply wears through the rim surface.
Ceramic treated rims are more durable and stop better in wet
conditions, but wear through brake pads faster than smooth annodized rims.
Recently mountain bike manufacturers have been
adding disc brakes to many of their new models.
Disc brakes have been used on downhill racers' bikes for years, but
now are becoming mainstream on cross country style mountain bikes.
Downhill racers have preferred disc brakes for their dependable
braking at high speeds and performance in extreme conditions.
Good quality disc brakes are superior to V-brakes
in stopping power and modulation, but tend to be more expensive and
technologically complex. For
example, numerous designs employ hydraulic systems similar to those found in
an automobile, although new, simpler mechanical versions function well and
are gaining popularity. Disc
brakes are usually purchased as original equipment on a new bike due to the
cost of retrofitting a bike with standard brakes.
Disc brakes use a pad and rotor combination at the
center of the wheel rather than a standard bicycle brake at the rim.
This eliminates friction and wear at the rim side wall, an important
improvement for bikejorers.
Another benefit is wet weather performance, where disc brakes significantly
outperform all other bicycle braking systems.
In sum, a mountain bike with good quality disc brakes and knobby
tires will allow you to stop your team on a dime under most trail
conditions.
Suspension
Mountain bikes are usually equipped with suspension
in the form of a front shock.
Front end suspension minimizes the impact of rough terrain and improves
handling and control for off-road riding.
Specifically for bikejoring, a suspension fork allows the bikejorer
to brake constantly without his or her hands bouncing off the handlebars
(during braking only your thumb and palm contact the handlebar).
Control is also improved with a suspension fork due to the tire
maintaining contact with the ground instead of bouncing over bumpy terrain.
This continual contact with the trail surface also improves traction.
Dual suspension
Most mountain bike manufacturers offer several dual
suspension models which include a suspension fork in front and a rear shock
as well. Dual suspension bikes
are phenomenal for bikejoring but are more expensive than models with just
one shock. The advantages of
control, traction and comfort, however, are worth the expense if you plan to
bikejor frequently on off-road trails.
If you're in the market for a "dualie," choose one with disc brakes
for the ultimate bikejoring machine.
Already own a "hardtail"?
Consider purchasing an add-on suspension seatpost to smoothen out the
bumps and improve traction.
Quick release seat binder
Beginners and those who bikejor often on
challenging trails with two or three dogs will appreciate this piece of
equipment. Similar to the quick
release skewers found on bicycle hubs, the quick release seat binder allows
for quick seat height adjustment at the trailhead without using tools.
But why is this convenience important for bikejorers?
Experienced bikejorers often lower their bicycle
seats for improved stability and handling.
Lowering the seat lowers a bikejorer's center of gravity, and allows
the bikejorer to stand flat-footed during starts and stops.
The lower position also makes it possible to steady the bike through
corners by dragging a foot, and reduces the possibility of an "endo" when
bikejoring down steep descents.
For beginners a lowered seat simply makes bikejoring easier.
Obviously pedaling efficiency is compromised, but the tradeoff is
worthwhile until the bikejorer gains experience and confidence.
After finishing a bikejoring run the seat can be quickly returned to
its normal height for regular riding.
Fenders
No explanation needed here.
If you plan to bikejor in wet conditions, especially wet cold
conditions, fenders are an indispensable accessory.
As with skijoring, not every dog will stay in front like an Iditarod veteran. If your dog isn't a dependable front runner, you may opt for an attachment called a Springer. A Springer keeps the dog at the side of the bicycle via a short leash and spring mechanism that attaches to the bicycle seat tube (other variations attach to the bicycle's rear triangle). Because no line can tangle with the front wheel, the system can be safer for exercising dogs that aren't yet ready for prime time bikejoring. Bikejorers who primarily bikejor on city streets will also appreciate the short lead and greater control.
One disadvantage of the Springer, however, is the wider swath created when
bikejorer and dog travel side by side.
On most trails this isn't a factor, but for narrow single track the
traditional bikejoring set up is preferred which we'll describe later on in
this section. Another
disadvantage of the Springer involves positioning.
In skijoring, canicross and bikejoring, it is necessary for your dog
to be in front as a leader.
Since this behavior is critical for success in all three variations, it's
best to reinforce the front-running leadership role whenever your dog is
working, i.e., in the harness.
As previously mentioned, the Springer keeps your dog in a heeling,
non-leading position at your side.
(Because your dog can make contact with the front wheel while being
run with a Springer, keep the lead short and exercise extreme caution.)
Bungee towline
These are only a few examples of why a bungee
towline is necessary for bikejoring.
Simply stated, bungee lines smoothen out the bikejoring experience
for your dog, allowing him or her to concentrate on pulling rather than
anticipating when the next line jerk will occur.
Bungees can also take up a significant amount of line slack, similar
to the way a retractable leash winds up excess cord.
This recoiling action reduces the probability of a line tangle with
the front wheel or your dog's hind legs.
Bikejoring and skijoring towlines typically have a
section of internal bungee, usually 3/8" thick and 12" to 18" long.
The bungee can be sewn, tied or clamped inside a length of hollow
braided polyethylene rope, approximately ten feet long when stretched.
We prefer sewn bungees for their durability and clean, simple design.
Two-stage towlines are a new alternative, and usually include a
section of 1/4" bungee as well as a section of 3/8".
These new style towlines address the problem of varying degrees of
force against the line, and retract significantly more slack line versus
standard models (about 30" versus 15").
Two-stage lines offer a variable rate of suspension
due to the different elongation properties of the small and large diameter
bungees. The thicker bungee
elongates when heavy pressures are applied to the line, for example when
starting or braking; the thinner bungee elongates when light pressures are
applied, for example, during the end of a run when a dog is trotting.
Of course the thinner bungee elongates during the heavy pressures as
well, which softens the transition from light to heavy tension.
The importance of a good quality dog harness cannot
be over emphasized (never use your dog's collar for pulling).
As a general rule, good quality harnesses cannot be purchased at
commercial pet stores, which tend to carry "walking" or recreational style
harnesses. Instead, choose a
harness designed for pulling from a skijoring or mushing supplier.
We recommend "X-Backs," which cradle a dog's back and sides without
inhibiting running movement or chest expansion.
A good quality harness should also have dense padding around the neck
opening and chest plate. For a
more detailed discussion on harnesses and proper fit - which is critically
important - see our equipment section.
Eye protection
Dogs kick up an inordinate amount of gravel, sand,
wood chips, clumps of mud, grass, etc. while bikejoring, especially when the
trail is wet. Your knobby tires
will also contribute to the onslaught of flying debris.
Protect your eyes by wearing a quality pair of impact resistant
glasses, and if bikejoring in the woods, use clear or light colored lenses
rather than dark glasses to improve your vision in the shade.
Helmet
Murphy's Law was
created for bikejoring. Dogs
bolt off trail after rabbits the exact moment a bikejorer is off balance;
towlines quickly tangle the instant a bikejorer waves to a friendly
passerby; humans have been known to say gee when they mean haw.
For Pete's sake, wear your helmet.
Dog Scootering
Precautions:
See Precautions as above, especially in canicross and bikejoring, in addition to following:
You may consider bikejoring if you plan to go up a lot of steep hills. Scooters are made for a flatter surface.
This website is not on skills training, so if you are going to try scootering make sure YOU are proficient in scootering without your dog.
Start with one dog before adding more - no more than 2.
Be very careful not to run into your dog.
TRAINING
HUMAN
This is not a lesson in biking so make sure before you start, you are proficient without your dog . Practice your turns and stops ahead of time.
You can help the dogs a bit more by using your foot to kick or running with the scooter so it is not all on the dog. On the other hand, this can also be distracting to the dog. This can also cause slack in the line when the dog is pulling.
As mentioned in precautions, this is not a sport if you have a lot of steep inclines to go up. This may require you to run with the scooter when necessary.
CANINE
Practice the commands and training that you learned in canicross and bikejoring above.
Keep the beginning sessions short. Vary the run distance each day.
If your dog is not as enthusiastic, take several days off and do something else for fun.
EQUIPMENT
See Bikejoring for most equipment, except scooter.
Scooter: Except from http://www.skijornow.com/bikejor.html
Weight is also an important issue
when considering a scooter for bikejoring.
Extra heavy duty models handle sluggishly on technical trails and are
difficult to push or kick uphill.
Furthermore, they add to your momentum on down-hills making it more
challenging to slow your team, although the braking system and tires are the
most significant factors.
Choose a model that is roughly the weight of a good quality mountain bike,
unless you plan to do all your bikejoring on relatively flat trails or train
three or more dogs at once.
Even if you're planning to scooter
the majority of the time on paved surfaces, an off-road scooter model is
still preferred versus a city or "road" version.
The off-road model transitions well to paved bike paths, sidewalks
and streets, etc., whereas the city scooter encounters difficulty making the
crossover to off-road. The
primary reason is traction.
City models generally have smoother tires, which provide inadequate traction
on grass, sand, dirt or gravel trails.
Moreover, smooth tires have even less traction when conditions are
wet. This is of paramount
importance for bikejorers who encounter morning dew on grassy, hilly trails.
Ground clearance is also a
factor, with the off-road scooter having larger wheels (usually 20") and a
correspondingly higher foot platform.
This design element is important for bikejoring in the city as well,
given the potential for encountering speed bumps, curbs, etc.
The only disadvantages of the off-road scooter in city work are a
slightly higher center of gravity (negligible) and a small amount of
vibration and noise generated from the knobby tires.
This can be remedied by simply changing tires if you plan to bikejor
exclusively on paved surfaces.
Finally, and
most importantly, whatever scooter design you choose, make sure you select a
model with good quality brakes on both wheels.
"V brakes," an innovation borrowed from the mountain bike industry,
are an excellent choice since they exert a tremendous amount of stopping
power to the rim with minimal hand pressure.
All V brakes are not created equal, however, so test ride your
scooter before buying...if the brakes can't stop you quickly on a test ride,
they'll never stop you when your dog is pulling!
The V
brake design will keep your hands from cramping on extended runs and allow
you to control your dogs effectively on downhill sections.
If you bikejor often in wet conditions, consider purchasing a set of
softer red brake pad replacements for your V-brakes.
They stop more effectively versus their black counterparts when wet,
and still offer adequate wear over the course of a season.
In sum, the off-road version scooter is the best choice for all
around use, especially one equipped with good quality V-Brakes and
aggressive knobby tires.
Pulka or Nordic Style Dog Mushing http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-pulka.htm
Pulka is a type of winter sport popular in Scandinavia which has recently spread to other parts of the world. Pulka can be great fun, and involves a high level of cooperation between people and animals for success. It integrates dogs, a sled, and a skier. Pulka can be done with one dog or multiple dogs, depending on the amount of weight being pulled. In addition to being a competitive sport,
is also used by some winter adventurers to move supplies.
Pulka begins with the dog or dogs, which are put into a harness attached to a small sled called a pulka. . In competition, the pulka is loaded with a set weight, which is around 40 pounds (20 kilograms) for male dogs and 33 pounds (15 kilograms) for females, who tend to be smaller and less able to bear heavy loads. When used for recreation, the pulka may be left unloaded, or used for gear and supplies.
The skier attaches him or herself to the pulka using a strap. Technically, the skier is not being pulled by the dogs, although flat terrain provides an opportunity to rest. The skier must work with the dogs to succeed, contributing on uphill climbs rather than acting as dead weight. Pulka requires more coordination than traditional dog sledding, because in addition to handling the dogs, the skier must also stay upright and in control of his or her skis.
A wide variety of dogs are used for pulka. It is not necessary to use heavy breeds such as those used in dog sledding. Labradors, German Shepherds, Pointers, and Giant Schnauzers are all popular dogs for pulka in addition to Huskies and more traditional sledding breeds. When selecting dogs, sportsmen look for obedient, loyal breeds which can work well with other dogs and humans.
Pulka is most popular in Scandinavia, and is not as well known in the United States where dog sledding and skijoring are more common winter sports with dogs. Pulka is recognized by the International Association of Sled Dog Sports as a sport, and competitions are regulated by that organization as well. In 1952, pulka was demonstrated at the Oslo Olympics, raising public awareness about the sport. In Scandinavia, regular pulka competitions are held at varying distances, usually a minimum of six miles (10 kilometers) but ranging up to 18 miles (30 kilometers), with race distances for men usually being longer.
EQUIPMENT
Pulk (Small Sled):
The sled or Pulk is approximately 16 lbs for a commercial grade. This can be pulled behind the skiier instead of between the skier instead of between the canine and skijorer.
Shaft:
"If the Pulk is being pulled behind the skijorer, a longer shaft needs to be attached, which are attached to a modified skijoring belt. When the pulk is between the skier and the dog, the dog is hooked to the pulk with ridged shafts. When the skier is between the pulk and the dog, the ridged shafts for the pulk are attached to the skier. " (MUSH! A Beginner's Manual of Sled Dog Training, by LaBelle, Charlene - editor)
Skijoring Belt (modified if needed), and other equipment listed in the Skijoring section.
References
Ski Spot Run by Haakenstad and
Thompson for lots of information on skijoring
and more.
